Vol. 8 - From Railway to Trailway: Johnson’s Own Lamoille Valley Bike Tours
Words by Jillian Conner | Photos by Evan Kay
Up in the northernmost section of Vermont, a railway used to wind across the state, cutting east to west. In the late 1800s it connected to the other train lines in New England; in its later years it transported freight. And like the fate of many railways across the country, it met its operational end during the 20th century after a last go as a foliage tour provider. Its route was chosen for its relatively flat grade, a rarity among the hills of Vermont. Now, the railway has been given a second life, thanks to this gentle terrain. These days, where the train tracks used to sit, you’ll find a ribbon of gravel stretching almost 94 miles along the Lamoille River. And, if you ever find yourself biking on it, you may run into some of Johnson’s finest folks: the owners of our local bike tour company, Yva and James Rose.
We set out from the Mill with our friends at Julbo Eyewear and a crew of local athletes, to meet up with Yva and James and see what the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is all about.
The Lamoille Valley Rail Trail first opened in 2016, though it wasn’t contiguous. The former railroad was owned by the state at that time, and officials asked the abutting communities what they wanted to see in its place. VAST (the Vermont Association of Snow Travelers) jumped in and pitched the idea of a rail trail. Seeing the opportunity for economic development, recreation, and community-building, the participating towns got on board. VAST won the bid to manage the development of the trail, secured $5.2 million in funding through Senator Bernie Sanders, and got to work.
Yva and James were paying attention. Residents of Johnson, they wanted to see the trail thrive. The best way to accomplish this? Providing bikes for visitors to get out and see what their valley had to offer. Before long, and before the rail trail was 100% complete, they opened Lamoille Valley Bike Tours in 2016. Yva quickly saw the opportunities along the first 17-mile stretch that opened: with quaint towns, breweries, shops, and delicious food along the path, guiding people along the trail was an easy sell. Every week, they set up their trailer full of e-bikes at different locations along the trail and welcomed tourists to the area. As Yva predicted, the highlights of their tours were the local businesses they stopped at along the way. The Cabot cheese store, Marvin’s Country Store, and of course, the Johnson Woolen Mills were popular destinations for those riding from community to community. Along the way, they advocated for the trail’s importance to the Lamoille River Valley and each community along it, from Swanton to Saint Johnsbury.
As the rail trail grew, so did the business. The pair partnered with the Vermont Canoe & Kayak, collaborating on boat/bike hybrid tours. They began to outgrow their trailer setup and grew tired of tripping over endless battery chargers at their house each evening, so they started looking for space to build a brick-and-mortar hub for the business. They soon found space right on Railroad Street in Johnson, adjacent to the rail trail itself, and put down roots. Their dream of a full shop realized, they increased their fleet of bikes, hired staff, and added more routes and tours to their offerings. The growth has been steady; aside from a forced shutdown due to the 2023 floods, which closed large sections of the trail, Yva and James have been welcoming around 5,000 customers every season, with more coming in every year.
If you ask them why they love Johnson, they’ll tell you what most Vermonters would say about their respective hamlets: there is an incredible sense of community here. Recreation, too, is paramount. From clean rivers and streams with fishing and paddling opportunities galore, to skate parks, swim holes, and the rail trail itself, Yva says Johnson supports a life outside. Add in a rich history, including its famed Woolen Mill, and it's as well-rounded as you could ask of a Vermont village.
It’s an exciting time to be the owners of Lamoille Valley Bike Tours. With the full length of the trail completed in just 2023, the possibilities for passenger numbers are almost unlimited. Not only could the business continue providing its well-known tours, they added their bike shuttle service, offering transportation to riders who wanted to explore more distant legs of the trail without biking there. With more awareness and time, Yva is hopeful the rail trail can attract up to a million people each season - as much as their neighboring Canadian trail hosts annually. More visitors equals more dollars in the hands of local business owners throughout the valley. She’s motivated by this and the opportunity for connection that the trail, and her business, provides. Her favorite memory evokes this perfectly: a four-generation family rented bikes one day, their oldest member an 86-year-old great-grandfather. At the end of their tour, he was the first to return on his e-bike, grinning from ear to ear, proclaiming that he felt like a kid again. This is what it’s all about.
We’re proud to share a community with Yva, James, and all of the other small businesses next to us here in downtown Johnson. Their sentiments about community, recreation, and all that our tiny hollow has to offer ring true in our ears, and Johnson Woolen Mills is excited to be welcoming visitors for many years to come.
Curious to check out the trail and all it has to offer? Visit the Lamoille Valley Bike Tours site to learn more.
